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EVAP SYSTEM MONITOR NOT READY CODE

in most cases, the three continuous monitors will complete.Step four: prioritize which monitor to address

EVAP SYSTEM MONITOR NOT READY CODE

they need to re-do their work, for no additional charge, unless a totally new and unforeseen trouble code has occurred.

if a check engine light illuminated and/or a pending code was set, the repair shop who worked on your vehicle did something wrong.

if your monitors are not "ready," then take note of them.

if all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.

they should do this as a courtesy and for free.

drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes.

Step three: take note of which drive cycle monitor(s) did not complete please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed and stay in the right lane for safety reasons. make sure to keep the speed on the freeway between 55 and 60 mph for a minimum of five miles.

follow the basic drive cycle steps faithfully.also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed. the keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition.if the outside temperature is over 90° f, the fuel is too volatile and the evap system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests. the engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. the vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° f.also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run. if you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (pcm) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the drive cycle. the vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery.if the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all. some systems, especially the evap system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full.If the rear should drop, I think the lack of vehicle momentum in combination with my amazing ninja-like reflexes, should be enough to prevent me from launching myself into the empty house across the street.Step one: double check vehicle preparation So that basically leaves me sitting there with as much clearance as possible in front of me while I "drive". My thoughts are that anything I could put in front of the front tires as a wheel chalk will have little stopping effect should the rear drop. I've never run a truck while on jack-stands and certainly never run one at 45 mph for 5 minutes then at 25 mph for 15. My questions are, will this work, and are there any specific issues (safety or otherwise) that I need to be aware of? So my new idea is to put the rear end up on jack-stands and "drive" the exact pattern that the FSM calls for.ĭon't know why I didn't think of this two weeks ago. It is simply damn near impossible to do where I live, and I'm tired of screwing with it. After two weeks of trying to meet the "readiness drive pattern" for the evap system so the truck will preform the pressure/vac test.I give up.